On the Essex shore of the Thames, this small village, with its fort, church and pub, may not have the ornithological atmosphere of Cley or Titchwell. But on a good day - and there are many, even in an average year - its birding can deliver just as rewarding an experience.

A tally of 18 species of wader in a day compares with hotspots such as Minsmere or the north Norfolk coast at the start of the autumn migration. But this total was achieved without leaving Essex and only a few miles from the London boundary.

Like much of Thameside, the area has had more than its fair share of abuse. Gravel extraction, refuse disposal, uncontrolled motorcycling, and rough shooting have all left their mark.

But there is still an air of mystery around this historic shore. And it can always deliver an exciting day's birding.