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That's easy done in all the excitement. Check the histogram after the first shot and that will give you an idea, it should be to the right of centre. Shooting in raw can help as there is the chance of pulling something back in the software after but this means more work at the PC.
If you can get it right in camera that's best. Iain. |
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That's what has been my problem too, forgetting that I've set the camera for such and such, and then moving on to a different environment and getting terrible photo's because I haven't changed the camera settings. It's usually the exposure compensation for me, as I'm trying to get detail of birds way up in the trees against the light.
I started off using the programmed auto settings and just tweaking things a little here and there. This was 'ok' for the majority of the time, but I needed faster shutter speed for birds in flight. Then I began to use the camera in sports mode and I'm happier with the results. I think for my bird watching, this is best for me, I've lost too many opportunities by fiddling about with the camera. |
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A tripod also is a great asset, they can be cumbersome to carry around but they realy do make a difference cheers, John
__________________
Take only photographs, leave only footprints....................................... For wildlife information in the Clyde Recording Area see ... -clydebirds- |
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Has anyone got any tips or advice for photographing birds against the sun.
I'm often out in bright, sunny conditions and find that I have a photo opportunity, but shooting into the light. My picture of the Long tailed tit at Mere Sands Wood for example. I've tried dropping the exposure compensation before, but it doesn't always give great results. Best wishes, Alan |
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the best tip is, don't shoot in to the sun. It will mean missing some opportunities but will also help stop you getting shots you are not happy with. If you do take photo's of backlit subjects then spot metering mode is essential, this will only work well if you are very close to the subject though. The only other way is by using exposure compensation which takes a lot of trial and error to get right though. I very rarely even try to take images of birds if they are backlit as they are very frustrating and I never really get usable images Cheers, John
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Take only photographs, leave only footprints....................................... For wildlife information in the Clyde Recording Area see ... -clydebirds- |
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Hi Alan,
For shots into bright or sunny skies, where possible and as long as you can get within a decent distance. Try taking the exposure of the sky and using flash to light the subject, in most DSLR's this can be done within a few seconds. This means your background won't be blown out and you get a decent exposure on the subject. Only down side is alot of birds in the wild may get spooked, so you may only get one or two chances. Hope this helps some what.
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![]() cheers, John
__________________
Take only photographs, leave only footprints....................................... For wildlife information in the Clyde Recording Area see ... -clydebirds- |
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